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Halcyon days when the entire Sapporo surf crew could fit into one Mazda, single fins stacked on the roof. His voice echoes from within the confines of the. Motion board I brought back to Hokkaido. They were very popular back then, Local Motion boards from Hawaii. In there were no surfboards to be bought here.
It was hard to get a good one. There was Sex Wax. It was warm water wax so it was too stiff, too hard. Since in Japan, surfing was booming.
In Gerry Lopez visited Niijima [an island close to. Tokyo] and I saw him surf there. Until then, Japanese fashion and culture was mainly like Ivy League fashion, but.
Those from the hippie generation. By it had developed into a fashion, a culture. Hokkaido was very much split between town and country.
The urban areas like Muroran and the provincial. Some of the keenest managed shift work, but while Californians, Europeans and Australians were. Surfing in a cold place, the mind is quite different, you know? The cold water affects the body — the joints, the. In Bali, if you had a board, you could get by on just a few bucks a day; on Hokkaido you needed cold. However the early seeds of surfing had been sown, and despite the harsh conditions, this hardy perennial began.