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From his paddleboard rental tent at the far end of Ipanema Beach, Paulo Vitor Breves has ample opportunity to observe the beachgoing Olympic tourist in his new foreign habitat. Several distinct traits identify the gringo, he noted. Most foreigners pick up their trash instead of leaving it strewn in the sand.
The women hide behind towels and awkwardly shimmy out of their bulky outer clothes. And that vast bottom half of the tourist swimsuit always comes as a shocker. The beaches of Rio are governed by intricate protocols. Where to sit, what to eat, how to interact with your fellow half-naked man. When the world's tourists come galumphing in for two weeks during the Olympics, smeared with mosquito repellent, wearing backpacks on their chests and sneakers in the sand, they are bound to be breaking several invisible and inviolate rules.
So let us stop pretending that we care so much about archery and dressage and take a stroll down Ipanema. We, of course, see the Brazilians, with their floss-sized bikinis and snug sunga shorts, but how do they see us? A lot," said Alexandre Conceicao, 27, who studies the tourists while tending to beach chairs and umbrellas at a stand called Barraca Mineiro. He is used to Brazilians enjoying an icy beer.
But some foreigners "get so drunk on caipirinhas that they fall asleep and their friends have to carry them home. Cariocas, as Rio residents are called, may seem casual and carefree, their city a paradise for the no-shirt, no-shoes traveller. But residents have their beach-life rituals. They eschew the beach towel, as it's too heavy and cumbersome and gets all gummed up with sand. They prefer the multi-purpose light cotton sarong that can be worn as a wrap or spread on the sand. The setup process for women preparing to sunbathe, with its elaborate bikini tweaking and adjusting, seems like performance art, as does the post-beach rinse down in the outdoor showers.
Cariocas don't wear tennis shoes or socks or jeans to the beach. They laugh at goggles, and they avoid draping themselves in expensive jewellery or watches on the sand. They also respect the power of the South American sun, applying regular sunblock, and leave the farmer tans to the tourists. Far, far, away," said Natali Gama, a year-old student lying next to a friend.